Saturday, June 20, 2009

Ausangate

You may have noticed that on my normal abandonment of this blog has really reached an inappropriate level. Well, I have an excuse, I swear. My parents came to Cusco! Yes, Nancy Grant and Mike Boyson made the long Portland- NYC- Lima- Cusco journey to spend some quality time together and embark on a MONSTER HIKE. This monster hike was 4 days and 4 nights up and around Mt. Ausangate, the tallest mountain in the Cordillera Vilcanota mountain range at 20,900 feet. We were admittedly a little unsure of what to expect- we were told it gets cold and that we'd be hiking steep terrain at high altitudes.

Well, I don't think any of us imagined what we got. It was unbelievable in every way imaginable. It's difficult to describe. First of all, we were in the middle of nowhere. We started from the town of Tinke, about 300 miles southeast of Cusco. While we were on the trail, we saw almost no one. Every now and then we'd come across a small Andean child or old lady and we'd wonder, "Where on earth did that person come from?!?" Secondly, the natural beauty we were surrounded by was constant and breathtaking (and I hate that word). We were walking on and around amazing mountains, glaciers, lakes, alpacas, llamas, and vicugnas, and then at night the stars and moon were so bright and seemed so close they almost seemed fake.

Challenges: it was steep, and at 17,000 feet the air is very thin. I did okay considering the frequency with which I work out here (low) but the poor unacclimated padres experienced some serious huffing and puffing. Also, at night it got down to about 10°F. That is COLD when you're sleeping in a tent. We woke up with frost on our tents and condensation on our sleeping bags.

Highlights: Our guide Miguel who not only logistically had everything perfect, but also is a fluent Quechua speaker and could communicate with anyone we came across, and is very in touch with Pachamama, the Mother Earth and mountain goddess for Andean people. He made the whole experience very spiritual for us and educated us on the history and significance of Pachamama.

It was also wonderful to spend so much time with my parents in such an incredible setting- sharing that experience with them is something I'll never forget.

The trip was a physical challenge and ultimately an accomplishment, an opportunity to sincerely connect with la naturaleza and simultaneously disconnect with the world and all its entities, and a serious mind clearer. It was undoubtedly one of the coolest journeys I've been on, and I'll definitely remember it forever. Lucky for me, since Ausangate is so massive, despite the fact that it's 300 miles from Cusco, even on a semi-clear day you can see it from almost anywhere in the city. It will be a constant reminder of the magical time I spent there!

The monster from the road

Getting ready to conquer the beast.

Camp on night two. Coffee is goooood!

Dedicated to Trevor

So many alpacas.


Camp on night 3. Very cold. I slept with two pairs of long underwear, three pairs of socks, a tank top, a t-shirt, a long sleeve shirt, a heavy fleece, a jacket, my heavy ski jacket, a scarf, a hat, hoods from my jackets, gloves, and a hot water bottle. I barely survived the nights.


This is the river right next to our camp site. You will notice the river is frozen.

The combination of colors was incredible, between the sky, snow, lakes, red, etc.

I am happy.

The mountains did not stop. It was all we could see.

17,552 feet- If you had asked me my name at this point I would have answered Elise, Goddess of Mountains. That's the peak of Ausangate behind me on the left (to get to the tippy-top you have to have crampons, ropes, etc.)


So many blisters. Making Curt Schilling proud.


The different location of lakes in relation to the glaciers made them different colors. Cool!

Kind of like the Caribbean, minus the alpacas and mountains?

This is what two relaxed hikers look like

Our last lunch spot- so close to the end! With our chef, Juancito (who clearly took his cooking pretty seriously- and it was so yummy!)

*If you want more pictures, check out facebook!

Monday, June 8, 2009

Visitantes

We've had a couple visitors in town for the last week... Jenna, Alex's oldest friend, and her super hip New Yorker friend Abel. They've been a blast, and their kung fu fighting reenactment is buenisimooooo!

Sunday, June 7, 2009

I'm sorry, I know my blog sucks

Here's why, according to the NYT...

Blogs Falling in an Empty Forest


“HI, I’m Judy Nichols. Welcome to my rant.”

Nancy Sun stopped blogging by 2004, but now she has a new blog.

Thus was born Rantings of a Crazed Soccer Mom, the blog of a stay-at-home mother and murder-mystery writer from Wilmington, N.C. Mrs. Nichols, 52, put up her first post in late 2004, serving up a litany of gripes about the Bush administration and people who thought they had “a monopoly on morality.” After urging her readers to vote for John Kerry, she closed with a flourish: “Practice compassionate regime change.”

The post generated no comments.

Today, Mrs. Nichols speaks about her blog as if it were a diet or half-finished novel. “I’m going to get back to it,” she swears. Her last entry, in December of last year, was curt and none too profound. “Books make great gifts,” she began, breaking a silence of nearly a month.

Like Mrs. Nichols, many people start blogs with lofty aspirations — to build an audience and leave their day job, to land a book deal, or simply to share their genius with the world. Getting started is easy, since all it takes to maintain a blog is a little time and inspiration. So why do blogs have a higher failure rate than restaurants?

According to a 2008 survey by Technorati, which runs a search engine for blogs, only 7.4 million out of the 133 million blogs the company tracks had been updated in the past 120 days. That translates to 95 percent of blogs being essentially abandoned, left to lie fallow on the Web, where they become public remnants of a dream — or at least an ambition — unfulfilled.
Read the rest of this article here.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

The More You Know...

HAFE, or high altitude flatus expulsion- read all about it!

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Midweek getaway

After I found out I had an unexpected canceled class which coincided with Aiden's day off, we set off for a little getaway trip to Ollantaytambo (didn't get my fill last week). This time, we decided to stop off at the lake we had passed by earlier to see if we could take a swim. Once we got there, it became apparent the lake was pretty marshy so to enter it we'd have to wade through a bunch of gunk... opted not to take that route. Intead we enjoyed the gorgeous scenery, chatted with the locals who occasionally tutted down the road, and took in the uninterrupted sunshine.

Hi, lake!

The view from the other side... not bad.

Then we set off for the next town, Urubamba. This was going to be about a 25 minute walk to the main road and an indeterminately long wait for a bus or taxi to the town. Instead, after walking for about five minutes, we came across a huge gas truck, the driver of which was charmed by Aiden into taking us on his journey to Urubamba.


This worked out really well because a) we didn't have to walk on the dusty road b) it was free c) the big gas truck couldn't exactly fly around the corners, plus we were very high up, so the views were great and able to be taken in sloooowly, and d) Jesus, the driver, was great company.

Jesus drove us to town.



Can you find the moon?

Urubamba from above

In Urubamba we went to the market to have a bite to eat and then continued on to Ollantaytambo.

The market (which was closing up at the time)

Affectionately known as "Ollanta", as previously blogged, the town is very small and doesn't have a lot to offer apart from its stunning beauty and tranquil vibes. So we were expecting a quiet night in consisting of reading and tea... until our bus rolled in at about 4:30 pm and we noticed a massive crowd gathered by the river. After checking into our hostel, we wondered down to see what it was all about... turns out we walked into Ollanta's biggest party of the year, La Festividad del SeƱor de Choquekillka. Choquekillka (who I liked to refer to as ChoqueKILLA, no k, kind of like Ghostface Killa) is Ollantaytambo's much adored and celebrated saint. Every year they have a four day celebration dedicated to Choquekillka which includes a lot of music, dancing, food, and booze. Since I had no idea this was happening, I didn't bring my camera, but I found a few pics online...

There he is!

Funny costumes & masks

These are the hats many were wearing... slightly creepy.

There were a lot of funny costumes, and more public intoxication then I've seen in a while... they really love this guy! The highlight of my night was when we stopped back into the hostel after dinner and went up to the roof. Laying in the hammock and looking up at the best and brightest stars I've seen in a while, with a drink in my hand and a lovely Irishman by my side, I couldn't help but think about how wonderful my life is here. I'm so, so thankful to have this time. At that moment fireworks exploded in the night sky and life felt that much more magical!

In the morning we got up early and took a little hike, then headed back to Cusco! I'm becoming increasingly aware of how the constant visual stimulation here has a huge impact on my state of mind. My surroundings are dumbfoundingly (is that a word?) beautiful, and having them at my side constantly just does something good to me. No complaints here. A few pics from the hike:





Monday, June 1, 2009

Yay Peru!

From the Miami Herald: Peru maintains growth despite global recession

While much of Latin America is facing negative economic growth this year, Peru is weathering the world economic recession far better than most of its neighbors.

It is expecting economic growth of 4 percent in 2009, said Luis M. Valdivieso, Peru's ambassador to the United States, at a recent Miami conference.

If it achieves this target, Peru will outstrip all other nations in the region in 2009, according to the most recent projections by the International Monetary Fund. Last year, Peru's economy grew by more than 9.8 percent, beating out other top performers like Panama (8.7 percent), Uruguay (8.2 percent) and Argentina (6.3 percent).

''Peru had the highest annual average growth in Latin America over the last 15 years, averaging 5 percent per year,'' the ambassador added.

Read the rest of this article here...

P.S. Is it really June 1st?! Dios Mio.